| In our descriptions you will note references to different types of leather- nubuck, lamb nappa, suede and so on. Following is a brief explanation of these types of skins. |
 All skins have two sides, the outside, or hair side, and the inside, or side against the muscle tissue. Tanners will process one side or the other, to produce the desired type of leather. LAMB NAPPA is the top grain, or outside of the skin, finished to a luxuriously smooth, wrinkle free surface. All our lamb nappas are "naked finished," producing a non- shinny, non-slick finish, which lets you feel the luxury of the leather directly. NUBUCK LEATHER, whether lamb or deerskin (we cut both), is the same top grain, or outside of the skin. The tanner subjects it to a buffing process, removing the grain that would have produced a nappa finish. The resulting top grain finish is often mistaken for suede, since it has a micro nap, much like suede. It is however a full top grain, and performs like a nappa. |
 Both NAPPA and NUBUCK are dyed in a variety of colors and treated with a variety of special finishes, such as distressed or shrunken effects. Both are very durable and can withstand water easily. They both clean well with water, using as much water as necessary to remove any water soluble soiling. In the same vain, both withstand mild wet weather, showing no adverse effect when dry again. Likewise, all leathers are effective wind breakers and a good leather coat is always a stylish and functional addition to any wordrobe. |
 SUEDE is produced from the inside, or back side of the top grain. Genuine suede does not have two "fuzzy" sides to it, since the back side of a suede skin is the top grain. There is a third type of leather, referred to as "split" leather, produced from thicker hides, from which the tanner splits the hide horizontally, producing a second sheet of leather, fuzzy on both sides. This "split" leather could be, and unfortunately often is represented as genuine suede. "Splits" tend to be ’boardy’ and stiff. They are offered at a lower price than suede, and are recognized by the educated consumer for what they are. GENUINE SUEDE is very soft and has a wonderful drape. It has the tensile strength of a top grain, much stronger than a split skin, and, yes, can be cleaned with water. The lamb suedes we cut are produced here in the United States and England, where we have them "SCOTCH-GARDED" (tm) in the tanning process, creating the most carefree, water repellent lamb suede possible. | |
 One of the defining characteristics of a hide is its THICKNESS, or "millimeter" in tanner’s jargon. There is no one millimeter better than another, overall. At First Street Leather, however, we have chosen the niche of producing lightweight, thinner millimeter leather garments, and have cultivated our customer, over the years, to appreciate and expect softer and more lightweight leather garments than they are used to finding in other stores. Our lamb suede shirt for example is cut from a specially produced, thin millimeter "shirting" suede. Ever challenged to produce luxuriously light leather garments, we said, "Why not a jacket out of shirting?" The result is one of our best selling suede jackets, a shirt weight blouson windbreaker for men. |
Leather in the Rain
You can wear leather in the rain! Although some specialty leathers may be sensitive to rain, the large majority of leather used for jackets, coats, hats, bags and shoes is not damaged by a little water. If the leather dries with water spots simply take a damp cloth and wipe the entire article down so that it will dry evenly and will not leave spots.
Leather with Spills and Marks
If you spill something on leather wipe it immediately a damp cloth! If that is not sufficient, flush it with water. Hold the article, or the affected area of the article, above a sink and flood it with water to remove as much of the contaminant as possible. For water based spills, such as most drinks, this is all that is required. Oil based compounds like olive oil or butter will be absorbed by the skin and the spots they leave are very difficult to remove. Wiping or flushing quickly will help prevent this.
After flushing the garment may be necessary to press it when it's dry. Any professional cleaner or tailor can do this. Be sure to expressly state you do NOT want the garment cleaned by them under ANY circumstances – only pressed.
Pens and ink are oil or solvent based and are hard to remove from leather, be very careful around ball point pens and sharpies when wearing leather. Pencils are a great option if you intend to be taking notes in your leather jacket. If you get ink on your jacket, rinse it immediately. Rubbing the skin may also help to remove the ink before it is absorbed by the skin.
Small marks and dots sometimes may be rubbed out of leather, simply rub the skin forcefully with your fingers and many small wrinkles, creases and dings will vanish.
Never put sticky tape or name badges on your leather! The adhesive will remove the finish on your leather and will damage it. Always put your name badge on a regular cloth garment and never on your leather garment.
Tears in Leather
The best way to deal with tears is to avoid them in the first place. Tears in leather should be handled by a professional leather repair specialist or tailor versed in leather. Some items, such as shoes and handbags, may be repairable by a competent shoe repair service. In mid to low priced garments repairing tears may not be economical when compared to replacement cost of the item. In unique or very expensive garments it may be worth attempting to repair. Depending on the nature of the tear it may be possible to skive the skin and patch the tear in a way that is nearly invisible. This is a difficult process and is usually not an inexpensive repair. In other cases the tear may be stitched closed, patched from behind; both stitching and patching leave a visible trace of the tear. Finally, if the hide that the garment is made of is still available, it may be possible to replace the torn panel with a new one. This last option usually requires the original manufacturer of the garment make the repair and is normally only available for articles that are made in the USA. Also, the new panel may not match the rest of the garment due to fading in the worn garment.
Leather Storage
Store your leather goods in a cool dry closet. If you wish to cover the coat with a dust jacket, use a breathable material that will allow air to circulate around the article. Excessive moisture will cause your leather to mold while excessive dryness will cause the skin to dry out and tear easily.
While sunlight will not normally damage leather, even indirect sunlight will bleach most leathers. Leather should always be stored away from direct light. This is why a well worn jacket is often lighter in the shoulders than on the body, because your shoulders receive more direct sunlight than your waistline. The effect of sunlight is cumulative and many short duration exposures will also bleach leather, so when leaving your coat in the car or in your house try to place it out of direct sunlight in order to preserve its color.
If your leather is stored in a location that is too moist, it may become musty or moldy. Mold is difficult to clean from leather and because it grows in the skin it will seriously affect the strength of the leather. If you must store leather in an area that is consistently very humid, you should use a dehumidifier to keep the humidity below 50%. One of the easiest options is to use a “Damp-Rid” canister in the storage area. Be sure to follow the directions on the canister and to keep it out of the reach of children. If your leather item becomes musty or has visible mold, your best option is to send your article in for professional cleaning as described in the next section.
Leather Cleaning
Leather can be cleaned with a damp cloth or, if needed, a very mild soap solution made from water with a little moisturizing hand soap. Do not use detergent or dish soap as these will dry out the skin and may damage the color. Always test clean a small section that is not visible first, such as the inside lapel or underarm area, in order to verify that the solution does not discolor or damage the leather.
Saddle soap and leather creams may be used on glazed skins, but should not be used to excess and should never be applied to suede or nubuck. You can go here for a discussion of leather types
If you are unable to clean the garment or handbag with this mild solution, we recommend using Arrow Fabric Care from Kansas City, MO. They are specialized in the cleaning of leather garments and designer handbags. | |
First Street Leather: All About Leather
